With the right controls for your heating system, you can keep the home’s temperature
at a comfortable level without wasting heat or heating fuel; this means you will reduce
your home’s carbon footprint and save money on utility bills at the same time.

If you utilize a heating and hot water system with electrical storage, which charges up
during off-peak hours (usually at night) and release the stored heat during peak hours,
your heating system will need different controls installed.

If your home has a ‘wet’ central heating system, this means your home is heated via a system of pipes filled with water that is heated by a boiler. This boiler may be oil-fired, or run off of LPG or regular gas. The full set of controls for such a system should, under ideal circumstances, include a thermostat for the boiler, a programmable timer, a thermostat for the room(s) to be heated, and thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs).

What Kind of Savings Can You Expect?
Regardless of how old your boiler is, with the correct controls, you will able to set your central heating unit and water heater to be turned on or off when they are needed, to heat specific parts of your home, and set the temperature you desire for each heat and hot water. Take a look at the typical
savings you could expect in an average three bedroom, semi- detached house with a gas heating system:

•        With the installation of a room thermostat if there was none: €90 and as much as
280kg carbon dioxide/year

•        With a thermostat for the hot water tank: €36 and as much as 130kg carbon dioxide/year

•        With the addition of an insulation jacket for the hot water tank: €48 and as much as
170kg carbon dioxide/year.

Additional savings can be obtained by using your thermostatic controls more effectively:

•        By turning your room’s thermostat down by just one degree, you will save approximately
€66 and as much as 230kg carbon dioxide/year.

It is possible to add heating controls or upgrade existing ones without the need to replace
your home’s boiler. This is a very good idea if the heating controls in your home are more
than twelve years old. Today’s room thermostats offer much better accuracy than older
ones.

Temperature controls

Room thermostats
Room thermostats maintain a constant temperature in your home. When the temperature
drops, the thermostat turns on the heat until the temperature reaches the desired level,
and them the thermostat turns the heat off.

To work properly, a room thermostat needs free-flowing air, so that it may accurately sense
the temperature in your home, so they should not be obstructed by things like curtains or
pieces of furniture, or positioned close to heat sources.

The room thermostat in your home should be set to the lowest possible temperature that
you find comfortable—this is typically within the range of 18°C to 21°C. Adjust your room
thermostat down one or two degrees and see if the new temperature still feels comfortable
to you.

Also, you don’t need to turn up the heat on your system just because the weather outside
turns colder; your thermostat will keep your home at the desired temperature regardless
of the weather. This might take a few minutes longer on extremely cold days, so program
your heating system to switch on a little earlier during the winter months.

A room thermostat that is programmable offers additional features: it includes a timer and
permits you to program multiple temperature settings for various times of the day. You
may also have different temperature settings for multiple rooms if your heating system
includes thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs) on single radiators.

Thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs)
Thermostatic radiator valves are sensors that detect the air’s temperature near them and
adjust the flow of heated water through the radiator they designated for. They don’t act as
controls for your home’s boiler. These can be set for individually for the room to the level
you choose: lower settings require less energy, and you will save money as a result.

Please note: Radiator covers are not recommended since thermostatic radiator valves
(TRVs) detect the temperature of the air around them, and adjust the flow of heated water
accordingly depending on the temperature setting. By covering the radiator you also
enclose the TRV, which will likely fool it into thinking the room is warmer than it truly is,
since heat will get trapped between the cover and the radiator.

If your home already has covers over the radiators and these can’t be removed, it is still
worthwhile to use TRVs for temperature control as often as possible, even though the
radiator would work more effectively to heat the room space if it were not covered. If
you feel that the radiator does heat sufficiently at a certain temperature setting, turn the
TRV up.

Zone control
You can also save quite a bit of money by not overdoing the heat in areas of your home
that don’t get used often or do not need as high a temperature—some examples would
be rooms that have lot of glazing or extra bedrooms. Your heating system can include
extra heating circuits that include a separate programmer and rooms thermostat (or a
combination unit) or you can set heating zones with thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs).

Cylinder thermostat
If the hot water in your home gets stored in a hot water storage cylinder, the unit’s thermostat
will maintain the water temperature at the proper level. Once the temperature of the water
attains the level you have preset, the supply of heat from the boiler shut off.

Setting the thermostat to a higher level will not make the water heat faster, and the water will
not be heated at all if heating has been switched off by a timer or programmer.

Cylinder thermostats are normally situated between 1/4^th and 1/3^rd of the way up the side of
the storage cylinder. They are marked with temperature: they should be set between 60ºC -65ºC.
These temperatures are hot enough to destroy harmful bacteria that may be lurking in the water,
but keep in mind that it is hot enough to cause severe burns as well. As an extra safety precaution,
you may consider having a thermostatic mixing valve installed as well; this unit automatically
makes sure that the hot water coming from the tap remains at a temperature that is safe.

Boiler interlock
This is a wiring system that shuts off the boiler when it is not needed by either the room thermostat
or the cylinder thermostat. Without this wiring system, the boiler would be allowed to continue to
‘cycle’, which wastes energy.

Boiler thermostat
Your home’s boiler should have a temperature dial that is marked with numbers or settings
from Minimum to Maximum. This allows you to set the water temperature for the water that
is to be pumped from the boiler through the system’s radiators, which in turn heat your home.
If your  boiler is set higher, the heating system will warm the home much faster and more
effectively. As a matter of fact, if your boiler is not set to a high enough temperature, your
home’s internal temperature may not reach the thermostatic heat setting during very cold
weather.

If your heating system includes a room thermostat and a boiler interlock, you will be able to set
the thermostat of the very high, and then let the individual room controls adjust the air temperature
within your home appropriately. If, however, ensure that the boiler thermostat is set to a lower
temperature if there is anyone in your household who might be vulnerable to injury by coming
into contact with hot radiators.

You should always set the control thermostat on your boiler to a temperature that is higher than
that of the system’s cylinder thermostat. In most cases regarding boilers, a single thermostat
governs the temperature of the water that is sent to the storage cylinder and radiators; however,
in some instances there are separate thermostats.

Timing controls

Programmer or time control
A programmer or time control automatically switches your heating on or off at predetermined
times; this allows you to not waste heat when you are not in the home or when you do not need
as much heat, for instance when you are sleeping.

Programmers make it possible for you to designate time periods when the heating system is
on or off. Most models allow you to further customize your settings by turning on your home’s
central heating and hot water system individually. Some units also include manual overrides.
Be sure to check if the programmer’s clock is set correctly before you initiate your programmes.
This may need to be adjusted when the times changes as well.

To test your heating system, you should choose a colder evening and note the time it take for your
home to reach a comfortable temperature; this period is called the warm-up time. Afterward, turn
off the heating system completely and see how long it takes for the home’s temperature to become
uncomfortably cold, which is called the cool-down time.

With this information, you will able to program your timers to include the warm-up and cool-down
times. For instance, you would then be able to ensure that the heat turns on soon enough to allow
for the warm-up time and have your home at a comfortable temperature when people begin to wake
up, and turn off before you even leave from your home. If your home is insulated, the warm-up time
will be shortened and the cool-down time will take longer, and you will save money on heating as a
result.

Using programmers, you can set your water heater to activate only when you need hot water:
keeping the water hot all the time uses energy. If your tank or hot water cylinder or tank is
insulated well enough, it may even be the case that water heated in the morning will still be
hot enough for us in the evenings.

What we recommend
Always be sure that when you shop for heating control, the label says Energy Saving Trust
Recommended– this is a guarantee to you that the product you buy meets the highest energy
efficiency standards on the market, as well as that it will help save you money and energy,
no matter what your boiler unit’s age might be.

Here are some examples of Energy Saving Trust Recommended products:

•        automatic bypass valves

•        cylinder thermostats

•        full programmers

•        programmable room thermostats

•        programmers

•        room thermostats

•        thermostatic radiator valves

•        time switches

When searching for ways to save money and use less energy, draught-proofing is frequently
overlooked, which is unfortunate. Draught-proofing is one of the best and least expensive
methods of slashing the energy bills of any building.

Draughts and drafts are somewhat like ventilation, in that both allow fresh air to enter the
building. Good ventilation reduces condensation and dampness, but draughts are different.
They are uncontrolled, allowing too much cold air into a warm home in winter and wasting
energy by increasing heating costs, and the contrary during the summer with air conditioning.
In order to draught-proof your home, you must block gaps in windows, doorways, and such
that let the outside in, and let your warm air out. Getting rid of draughts will save you money,
because less energy will be expended to heat or cool your home; it will also make your home
more comfortable and snug.

How to Identify Draughts
Draughts occur when there are gaps in the construction of your home. It can occur in walls,
roofs, doors, and windows—any gap in the house that leads to the outside, like:

• Windows
• Loft Hatches
• Suspended floorboard
• Electrical fittings in walls and ceilings
• Ceiling-to-wall joints
• Doors, including letter boxes and keyholes
• Pipework that leads outside

Make sure you block the majority of these, but take care in areas of the home that need to
have good ventilation, such as:

• Places with open fires or flues
• Rooms that produce a great deal of moisture, like kitchens, utility rooms, and
  bathrooms.

How the Savings Can Add Up
Complete draught-proofing in a home can save about €66 per year. A draught-free home is
more comfortable at a lower temperature, so you’ll be able to lower the setting on the
thermostat. By doing that, you can save as much as another €72 per year!

If every home in the UK draught-proofed as well as possible, it would add up to a savings of
€228 million per year, and the energy saved could potentially heat around 400,000 homes.

Do It Yourself or Professional Draught-Proofing?

• Doing a DIY draught-proofing will generally cost about €228 for the materials
• A professional job will probably double this figure.

If you’re accustomed to doing simple DIY projects, then draught-proofing should pose few
problems. There are, however, some homes (especially older ones with single-glazed windows),
which will be harder to draught-proof. In these cases it might be best to seek out a professional.

A job done by a professional is more likely to save even more energy, because the professional
installer knows precisely which materials to use, and how to use them most effectively.

Choosing the Correct Draught-Proofing Materials
Choose draught-proofing materials that bear the Kitemark, which demonstrates that the product
has high quality standards. Products that show British Standard Institution accreditation have a
guaranteed lifespan of 20 years if they are installed properly and well-maintained.

Windows
Buy draught-proofing strips for the windows in your home that open. These strips can be stuck
around the window frame, filling the gaps between the window and frame. There are two kinds:

• Self-adhesive foal strips, which are inexpensive and very simple to install, but don’t always
  last a long time
• Metal or plastic strips that have brushers or wipers attached to them. These last longer but
  also cost a bit more.

Ensure that the strip is the proper size to fill in the gaps in your windows. If the strips are too big
they will be crushed, and perhaps you won’t be able to close that window. Conversely, if the strip
is too small, a gap will still exist.

Foam strips don’t work well with sliding-sash windows, so it’s better to fit the strips with brushes or
to consult an experienced professional. For those windows that don’t open at all, simply use a silicon
sealant product.

Doors
By draught-proofing exterior doors you will save a significant amount of heat and will only expend
a few Euros doing so. There are a few main items to consider in draught-proofing a door:

• Purchase a purpose-made covering that drops a metal disc to cover the keyhole
• Get a letterbox flap or brush, but make sure to measure the letterbox prior to purchasing
  the item
• The gap at the base of the door can be covered with a brush or hinged flap draught excluder
• The gaps around the edges of the door can be covered with foam, brush, or wiper sealant
  strips similar to those used on the windows
• Interior doors that lead to rooms that aren’t normally heated (like a spare bedroom or the
  kitchen) will need draught-proofing. Try to keep these doors closed to keep cold air from
  entering the rest of the home. If there are gaps at the bottom of the doors, block them with
  draught excluders. These are easily made at  home by filling plastic bags with pieces of spare
  material, such as old clothes or toweling.
• For inside doors that are found between two heated rooms you don’t really need to install
  drought-proofing, since no energy is lost when warm air circulates between the rooms.

Chimneys and fireplaces
If you rarely use the fireplace, it will be a major source of draughts. There are a couple of ways that
you can draught-proof a chimney:

• Install a cap over your chimney pot (this is probably best done by a construction professional)
• Purchase a chimney balloon, which is an inflatable cushion that is used to block the chimney

Just remember to remove the draught-proofing product before lighting a fire!

Floorboards and Skirting Boards
Cracks in floor and skirting boards can be blocked using a squirt-in sealant product. Since these
boards frequently contract, expand, and move with daily use, use a filler product that tolerates
movement. The best ones are silicon-based. Some things to look for are:

• Fillers that are flexible
• Decorator’s caulking
• Mastic-type filler products

These fillers come in varying colours, and they also have indoor and outdoor use formulations. They
will block gaps in a semi-permanent fashion, so do be careful during the application process, wiping
away excess with a damp rag before it has the chance to dry. These fillers do tend to break down over
time, but they can be re-applied with ease.

Also, check if you should insulate between the floor and the skirting boards.

Loft Hatches
When hot air rises in your home, it goes up into the cool spaces in your loft or attic, so it is a good idea
to block off any draughts around the loft or attic hatch. You can use strip insulation, like you can with
a door.

Pipework
Small gaps around pipes can be filled with silicon filler products like those used for floorboards and
skirting boards. Larger gaps can be filled with a type of expanding polyurethane foam. This foam can
be sprayed into the gap, where it expands as it dries, forming a hard set.

Older Extractor Fans
Older fan outlets might need to be filled up with bricks or concrete blocks and then sealed from both
outside and inside.

Cracks in the Walls
Cracks in walls can be filled in with cement or similar hard-setting filler products, but larger cracks
could be a sign that there is a problem with the wall or foundation. In these cases it’s best to bring in
a surveyor or construction professional to evaluate the cause of the crack before trying any DIY
remedies.

Ventilation
Air does need to flow into and out of the home so the structure stays fresher, drier, and healthier. You
have to make sure that you don’t block up or seal off any intentional ventilation, such as:

• Extractor Fans. These fans take the damp air out of rooms where moisture is produced, such as
  kitchens, utility rooms, basements, and bathrooms
• Under-Floor Grilles/Airbricks. These help wooden beams and flooring remain dry
• Wall Vents. They let in smaller amounts of fresh air
• Trickle Vents. Modern window designs often feature small vents above them, which allow small
  amounts of fresh air to “trickle” in

 

Everyone in Ireland has noticed the effects of rising energy prices on their monthly
budgets, and these effects aren’t good. Wholesale gas prices are up in excess of
70%  since 2008  alone,  according to industry statistics. This translates into a
significant upping of household costs, which isn’t something most people can
easily afford.

However, these price hikes have had a good side, in the fact that energy suppliers
have become  highly competitive  to keep their existing customers and lure new
customers away from the competition, in order to maintain their profit margin. This
has made energy a buyer’s market.

Additionally, much of the energy we pay for is actually wasted. This means that the
majority of  homes in Ireland can save as much as 400 Euros per year, simply by
making some small changes  to daily habits and comparing energy prices to get
the best deals.

What to Know Before Switching
The least expensive and most costly gas and electricity providers can have a difference
of as much as 130 Euros per year. If you have not changed your energy supplier or not
engaged in price comparisons recently, do so, as this can bring in significant savings with
very little effort on your part.

It is very easy to compare the rates for energy suppliers by checking online, and it is also
easy to switch. However, make sure to follow some guidelines prior to actually making the
switch. Ask a few questions in order to make the best choice.

• What are the hidden charges, if any?
• Does the quoted rate include VAT?
• Doses the supplier offer any kind of incentives for switching, discounts, or any special
  promotions or offers?
• Do they have a complaint record?

You don’t necessarily have to switch energy suppliers to save money. Switching to direct
debit instead of paying by cheque can save up to sixty pounds per year, or even more if you
have an online account.

The greatest savings over the long term come from making changes in how you use energy,
and making your home more energy-efficient. When you save money on your energy costs,
the wise thing to do is to re-invest that money into energy-saving technology and measures,
which will further reduce your costs. The savings gained over the years will pay for the initial
price of buying and installing these measures several times over.

By implementing these free energy-reducing tips, you will save money on your bills, which
can be applied to making even more changes.

Heating Hints

• Set your heat to turn off half an hour before you are scheduled to leave the home, and
  to come on again a half hour before you’re expected to return, so the heat doesn’t run
  while you’re not at home.
• Turn down the thermostat by one degree. This alone can save about thirty pounds per
  year.
• Remove any kind of obstructions that are in front of the radiator, such as curtains or
  furniture.
• Draw the drapes at sundown to keep heat inside.
• Insulate any lofts and attics, and consider insulating cavity walls, too.

Appliance Advice

• Use the new energy-efficient light bulbs that last as much as ten times longer than
  regular incandescent bulbs, besides using less energy overall.
• Turn off appliances like microwaves, televisions, music and video systems, and
  computers when they’re not actively being used. Standby setting still uses energy.
• Avoid leaving the refrigerator door open, and allow food to cool before putting it in the
  fridge, since cooling warm foods down can increase the power needed to keep the
  temperature steady inside.
• If you don’t have a frost-free refrigerator, defrost it regularly. Also check the door seals,
  to make sure there are no gaps or leaks, and that they seal tightly. Don’t put the fridge
  next to anything that makes heat, such as a stove or boiler. If you have a stand-alone
  freezer, try to keep it in the garage or a cooler room, so it doesn’t have to work as hard.
• Use the low temperature setting on your tumble dryer, and only wash complete loads of
  clothes in the washing machine, unless you have a reduced-size load or energy-saving
  programme.
• Hang clothes outside to dry in the sun when you have that option instead of using the
  energy-hungry tumble dryer.
• Use a clothes rail for drying things indoors, rather than hanging them on a radiator, which
  impedes the  heat from reaching the room efficiently.
• Upgrade your dishwasher if possible, especially since newer dishwashers use less water
  and electricity than washing by hand.

Cooking Advice

• When cooking on the stovetop, make sure the cooker ring is the same size as the pot you’re
  using, to reduce energy waste.
• Put a lid on pots and saucepans when you can, which makes the contents get warm faster,
  using less energy.
• Try to use pressure cookers, microwaves, and steamers when possible, because these
  appliances use less energy than the stove.
• When using the kettle, only boil as much water as is needed.
• Those who live in areas with hard water will find that limescale effects the kettle’s efficiency.
  Use vinegar or descaling products if you find your kettle has buildup.

Words about Water

• Try turning the temperature of the boiler down to sixty centigrade. This is a comfortable
  temperature for most people and will bring significant energy savings.
• Taking a shower as opposed to taking a bath with mean a savings of about 40% in water
  use.

Given the state of the economy, everyone is interested in saving money; given the state of
the environment, most responsible people want to do their part.One of the best ways to
save money at home is to reduce your energy consumption, which will ultimately mean
a reduction in fossil fuel consumption and greenhouse emissions—thus killing two birds
with one stone. There are a few practical and simple ways to reduce your electric and gas
consumption, which is good for the environment and for our pocketbooks.

Turn Down the Thermostat
It is hard to believe, but by lowering your thermostat by 1°C can reduce your heating costs
by as much as 10%, which translates into a savings of about €60 per year. That one degree
is insignificant: simply put on an extra blanket at night in the winter. If your heating system
has a programmer, set it to only come on when you manually switch it on, rather than
having it run all the time.

Lower Your Hot Water Temperature
Most people have their water heaters set too high, which results in higher heating bills.
Set the water heater cylinder to 60°C/140°F. This is hot enough for anything you need,
and will bring your costs down and save energy.

Window Matters
The windows in your home are more than just ways to see out: they also let in draughts
and let heat out. Close the curtains at nightfall, which will keep heat from escaping. Also,
check the seals around the glass window panes and casings, as well as doors; if you feel
a draught, remedy it.

Flip the Switch
Remember your mum telling you to switch off the light when you left a room? Well, it wasn’t
about being a nag, it was about saving valuable energy. By simply turning off the lights when
you exit, you can save significantly on electric costs.

Say No to Standby
Many newer appliances come with a “standby” mode, which is convenient for the user, but
which also costs you extra money. Maintaining an appliance on standby uses more electricity
than turning it off and on does, so don’t use that feature. Additionally, when your laptop
computer or mobile phone is done charging, unplug it. Not only is that better for the device’s
battery, it is kinder to the electric bill.

Fill ‘Er Up
When using the washing machine, dryer, or dishwasher, fill it up, rather than doing multiple
partial loads. It’s simple math: a full load uses less energy than doing two half-loads.

Mind the Kettle
When making tea or other item needing boiling water, only boil as much as is needed. Bringing
extra water to boil is a waste of energy and water.

Fix the Sink
Did you know that a dripping hot water faucet will waste enough water to fill up half a bathtub,
not to mention wasting the energy used to heat that water? Check your taps and fix any leaks—
and turn them off completely when you’re done using them!

Use the Right Lightbulbs
Energy saving lightbulbsare a necessity. Not only do they last ten times as long as regular
incandescent lightbulbs on average, they also significantly reduce your light bill: as much as €65 over
the bulb’s lifetime! If you switch one of these new bulbs for a high-wattage incandescent, especially
one that is used frequently, you can save about €90!

Conduct a thorough inspection of your home’s energy consumption to catch where changes can be
made that will make it more energy efficient. By utilizing these tips, you can save a great deal of money
and conserve energy as well.